How streetwear has become more stylish as luxury brands take a more casual approach

In 2020, at the height of the pandemic, I wrote an article about Justin Bieber’s collaboration with Crocs and its aftermath. Of course, it wasn’t just Bieber who welcomed the plastic clogs, but also Christopher Kane and Balenciaga. But this felt like something of a turning point (I may have used the word apocalypse dramatically) for fashion, and honestly, for humanity as a whole. In my defense, I was alone with my thoughts under COVID-19 stay-at-home regulations for far too long.

However, it is also true that a new trend in high fashion and streetwear has emerged from the chaos.

At this point, it’s not like streetwear hasn’t been on the radar of luxury brands for decades. Major companies were paying attention to the rise of surf culture on America’s East Coast and its rise on the West Coast. With style dust flying and swirling, the 1980s saw the emergence of new brands such as Stuussy. Sean Stussy’s skatewear business operated on limited-edition drop models that eventually proved essential for brands such as Ape and Supreme.

Some luxury brands dabbled in it, and a few years later the preppy looks of Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren hit the streets, but hip fashion was essential to building the bridge between these worlds. It was the rise of hops. By the 2000s, Ye started mentioning Gucci in his lyrics, and Jay-Z rapped an entire bar about his Hublot watch collection.

“Luxury brands were initially drawn to the streetwear scene, driven by a strategic need to refresh their brand image and connect with a younger, more dynamic consumer base.”Global consumption Kate Hardcastle, industry expert and CEO of Insight with Passion.

But while there was certainly a convergence of brands and cultures going on, there remained a disconnect with the majority of this early audience, who were often looking for lower price points. Fashion houses therefore recognized that they needed to restructure their future market strategies, but nothing else matters unless they can somehow restructure affordability as well. Join the collaboration between luxury and streetwear. Of course, Jil Sander had dipped his toe in the water before – he collaborated with Adidas in 1998 – but it wasn’t until the mid-2000s that his collaboration game started to heat up. .

Initially through partnerships with similar brands such as Supreme x Vans, the company eventually expanded to work with luxury brands as well. Fila x Fendi, Saucy x Dior, Bathing Ape x Comme des Garçons, Supreme x Louis Vuitton, and more were featured. Additionally, there was the zeitgeist appeal of a number of “cores,” including blockcore, Barbiecore, gorpcore, and normcore.

These collaborations may not have been cheap, especially when they hit the resale market, but they proved far more accessible than previous high fashion items. Supreme x Louis Vuitton was also interesting in that it probably signaled a new direction for fashion. In 2000, Louis Vuitton sent a cease-and-desist letter to Supreme for mixing the brand’s famous logo with its own. Seventeen years later, Skate Crew had become a kind of conduit to Louis Vuitton’s future market relevance.

For Dubai fashion director and stylist Kate Hazell, her newfound entry into luxury was crucial. “I actually think this is a democratic way to introduce luxury to more people,” she says.

“Because the price point is a little lower, sneakers, for example, are a more accessible and versatile way to buy luxury brands.”

As the high-low collaborations ignited the industry, internal movements also occurred. While luxury brands are rolling out lines of soccer shirts, varsity jackets, hoodies, and more, the mindset has changed dramatically, and the founders of streetwear are now actually being sought by brands to lead them forward. . From Nigo at Kenzo, founder of Ape, to Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, and now Pharrell Williams, things have been completely turned upside down.

“The success of a streetwear icon at the helm of a luxury home proves that fresh perspectives are needed,” says Sandra Yeghiazarian, founder of the Mena lifestyle platform . “The lines between streetwear and luxury have long since merged, creating a space where these designers feel comfortable in both worlds, helping to redefine the future of luxury fashion.” is more than just a trend. Get ready to see more streetwear designers continue to lead luxury brands, break barriers, and rewrite the rules of fashion.”

I’m not crazy about Bieber (just to be clear), but I felt like this was a good time to take a look at his latest luxury streetwear flexes, a bunch of super-inflated XXL fits. Masu. She was recently spotted wearing oversized jogging bottoms by Balenciaga and fluffy fur boots by Louis Vuitton.

On that note, Bieber’s experimental costumes toy with imaginative fashion both in the metaverse and in real life, as did MSCHF, whose cartoonish big red boots proved irresistible on social media last year. It’s close to the wild lines of performative brands like . That’s all well and good, but when you try to define what luxury actually means in 2024, it gets a little perplexing.

“[For me] It’s the craftsmanship, the attention to detail and the materials used,” says Hazel. “The artisanal aspect of many luxury goods causes prices to rise. But when it comes to a Balenciaga hoodie, there’s nothing that justifies its high price other than the fact that you’re paying for the name. I think it will be difficult.”

You might think that the only brands that would put streetwear at the heart of their business are those that have fully embraced it, but the reality is more nuanced than that. “Do T-shirts and denim count as streetwear?” Hazel continues. “I think they both fall under the broader umbrella of streetwear. If that’s the case, it’d be hard to find a luxury brand that could survive in 2024 without incorporating streetwear into their collections in some way.”

What is certain is that streetwear is now considered something of a core pillar of luxury. Its parameters may change, but its ethos remains embedded in the reworked DNA of the world’s fashion houses. “What started out as just a play in streetwear has turned into a foundational element for many luxury brands,” says Hardcastle.

“This is more than just a passing phase. It’s a transformative change in the fashion world. Streetwear has introduced a more relaxed approach to collection releases, and luxury brands are embracing a more fluid and responsive fashion presentation. This continued integration influences everything from design philosophy to marketing strategy, ensuring that streetwear is an important and vibrant part of the luxury fashion ecosystem. I guarantee you will continue.”

Speaking of various activities in the luxury fashion ecosystem, you may have recently heard about Yuppiecore (yes, another core). More subdued styles are in vogue here, including shirts, ties and blazers, with subtle changes brought about by expensive watches and jewellery. If you need a mental image, think back to A$AP Rocky’s recent outfits. In the most meta way possible, that means there are luxury homes that embrace streetwear that mimics luxury homes. Understanding this, we can see that the era of fashion without rules remains an important indicator of greatness.

“I believe in the success of streetwear.” [in working with] Luxury brands are all about freedom,” concludes Yegiazaryan. “It gives them choice, allowing them to discard stifling traditions while scrutinizing their brand’s core values, experiment with bold new designs, and above all, reach new audiences. For our customers, You can freely combine high-end and everyday to express your own style. It’s a win-win-win. Luxury gets playful, streetwear gains a new audience, and we all get more. You can have fashion freedom.”

Updated: May 19, 2024, 4:08 AM