A strong community generates strong business at Copenhagen Fashion Week

copenhagen — Where does the conversation go after sustainability?

There were fears there would be nothing more to say than just green talk at Copenhagen Fashion Week Fall 2024, which ran from Monday to Thursday. But the Danes proved something entirely different, with a packed schedule that exposed them to the inner workings of building a community and a solid business.

“Recently, despite an unprecedented humanitarian crisis in Gaza and elections in the United States and the European Parliament, the world appears to be falling apart. Its potential consequences frighten us all and threaten to undermine democracy. It should remind designers, buyers, journalists and executives that this is not something to be taken for granted,” said Cecily Thorsmark, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week.

“For many, our industry seems like a vague dream bubble, far removed from reality, and sometimes it is, and ignoring the privilege that comes with the obligation to speak up and act absolutely not,” she added.

Some choose to do so. For example, Masculina’s Alektra Rothschild spotlighted an anti-fuzzy Scandinavian aesthetic by choosing a cast that featured her friends and people from the LGBTQ+ community.

Her latest collection is a continuation of her previous collection titled “RIP Masculina,” which explores themes of rebirth through raincoats, bikinis, and PVC.

“It’s like I died on the beach in Ibiza in 1992 and woke up,” said Rothschild, the first openly transgender designer to appear at Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Rothschild’s strong and quirky collection has already won support from retail partners as the brand plans to introduce e-commerce on its newly launched website.

“We are working on a limited budget and want to grow slowly but surely,” said the designer.

Ghani, a player to watch in Copenhagen, will spotlight Copenhagen’s young talent, including Niklas Skovgaard, Amalie Roge Hove, Alektra Rothschild, Sara Stem, Sahar Jamili and Jens. He left the group midway through this season to make room for an exhibition titled “. Ole Arnason and Cissé Bjerre.

Each designer created a garment that will be exhibited at the gallery Nikolaj Kunsthal.

“The last few years have not been easy for emerging talent, but now more than ever we feel it’s the right time to make way for new voices,” said Ditte Lefstrup, Creative Director at Gunny. ” he said.

A newcomer to the scene and former designer for Raf Simons, Christian Dior Couture, Balmain, and Lanvin, Forza Collective’s Kristofer Kongshaug leans toward a clean, crisp aesthetic that’s easily recognizable compared to other, more minimalist labels. did.

“It feels really good. [having my own brand] Because throughout your life you pick up experiences and ideas and marinate them,” said the Norwegian-born designer.

His collections had a whiff of his formative years, reflecting the qualities of his entire wardrobe and the art of his uniforms. A gray skirt with a subtle slit. Wearing a brown drop-waist dress and short-sleeved shirt with a tie, Konchaug wore it as he took a bow at the end of the show.

The classical theme continued with Opera Sport, which played on the brand’s name and held its show at the Copenhagen Opera House.

Set against the gentle backdrop of Aphex Twin’s piano instrumental “Avril 14th,” which inspired romance and yearning, floral motifs disappeared in favor of a modest collection focused on ruffle techniques and monochromatic colors. Ta.

“From the beginning, we have focused on cost control. This strategic focus has enabled us to successfully navigate a difficult market environment,” said Stephanie Gundelak, co-founder of the brand. He added that the business will grow in 2023.

Despite the global luxury downturn and economic turmoil, business in Copenhagen remains strong as brands continue to focus on mid-market price points.

Newcomer Niklas Skovgaard admitted: “Sales have been steadily increasing in the last collection, and sales and production have doubled in the last collection sale.”

His whimsical collection features three characters: Tess McGill from the 1984 film Working Girl, Lesia Jonsson, lead singer of the Danish 80s band Laban, and her mother Annie, who went to London in the middle of the year. Based on different muses. ” Became an aerobics instructor in the 1980s.

Models walked around the room with their hands on their hips as hairsprayed beehives swayed to the beat of music.

Skull Studio saw a 39.4 percent increase in sales from 2022 to 2023, according to founders Julie and Marie Scull.

Their designs are rooted in intellectualism, sentimentality, and wearability. This season, they titled the collection “Letters,” an ode to late-’60s New York City creators like Joan Didion and Leonard Cohen.

“At this time of the year, we spend a lot of time reading, writing, and thinking. We have enjoyed this time of year every year, but somehow it feels like we are on a clean sheet. It makes me dream,” Marie Scull said.

Helmstedt’s whimsical world of psychedelic colors and prints continues to expand as the brand expanded into new markets like the US and Japan last year. This year, the brand continues its efforts to reach closer to home, including the UK and its native Scandinavian countries, by dialing back the vibrancy and offering shades of brown, beige, blue, orange, pink and even black. continuing.

Staying within the beige Scandinavian comfort zone has proven successful for Anne-Dorthe Larsen, founder of Lovechild 1979.

“Our sales performance in 2024 is [spring and fall] The collection is doing well and we expect to achieve at least 25 per cent annual growth,” said the designer, who has also opened new markets for his business.

Even if the clothes don’t express a strong creative point of view, Larsen, like many designers from Copenhagen, dresses real people who want to dress for themselves. .

But for Rotate co-founders Janet Madsen and Thora Valdimarsdóttir, it’s about dressing for others.

“We embrace women’s bodies and love being sexy. When we go out, we don’t really think about what other girls think is cool.” Is that so?” We love to dress up for men,” said a cheerful Valdimarsdottir backstage.

The two spent several days at the Danish Design Museum flipping through old books and magazines that referenced the ’50s. They incorporated the tropes they found into their collections: knots, drapes, cinched waistlines, and longer lengths.

This collection was a continuation of the rotating new categories of bridal wear and separates.

The show ended with eight brides wearing a variety of wedding dress styles, including long, short, sequined, sheer, and corsets.

“We found out that Elizabeth Taylor was married eight times, so this is a tribute to her and her eight marriages,” Madsen said.

Rotate’s show was one of the few where casting didn’t feel like a check-box exercise, as models confidently came down the runway wearing their creations.

The party moved to J. Lindbergh, where chief creative officer Neil Luthi hosted a nostalgic rave from the ski-wear-heavy 2000s club scene.

“We’re doing pretty well. The ski business is picking up and we’re investing quite a bit in it,” he said backstage after the show as guests sipped Bacardi Breezers.

The designer admitted that the euphoria of rave is not personal to him, but he enjoys the subversive ideas it brings.

“I like the idea of ​​walking into a traditional golf club, opening the door and being greeted by a rave,” said Luthi, explaining that J. Lindbergh’s golf business is rapidly growing outside the UK. .

Sachs Potts co-founders Katherine Sachs and Barbara Potts reminisced about the sleazy days of the 2010s, thinking about Kate Moss.

“Especially in the early 2010s, all of her festival appearances were in short dresses with big chunky belts and long fringe boots. It was also the time when she designed a collection for Topshop, and I Our interest grew and it was a period that we both remember as the highlight of our teenage years,” Potts said.

The brand has taken a more conscious approach this season. Instead of 4,000 guests, it was an intimate event with 60 guests in one store and 14 looks showcased.

“Given the many challenges and difficulties in the world at the moment, we thought it would be inappropriate to stage a grand event. That’s why we decided to scale the show down to its core. ,” Sachs said.

The business ended 2023 with “the best year in Saks Potts history,” Potts said.

Marimekko’s signature girly florals were an antidote to gray weather. Aiming to expand its business into international markets, the brand took over the high-ceilinged foyer of the National Gallery of Denmark, across from a serene lake, to showcase its new denim line, Maridenim.

“Our main markets are Northern Europe, North America and Asia Pacific, with a focus on Asia as the most important geographic region for international growth. We approach key markets through key cities. ” said creative director Rebecca Bay, explaining that the business has strengthened its position with store openings in both Asia and Scandinavia.

Marimekko’s 2023 numbers will be released in mid-February. In 2022, the business’s net sales totaled 167 million euros, and comparable operating income amounted to 30.4 million euros.

Copenhagen’s deep thinker Henrik Vibskov meditated this season on therapy and addiction resulting from the current state of “vulnerable youth.”

During a team-building exercise, the designers asked what their dream workday would be like, and someone wrote down “daily therapy sessions.”

Vibskov offers different types of therapy, from game therapy to horse therapy, where participants can spend 30 minutes with a horse cleaning, caring for and petting the animal. I went down a rabbit hole of research.

Designers incorporated the two-legged horse motif into knitted sweaters and scarves.

Bruce Pask, senior editorial director at Neiman Marcus, said the city has broken free from the cliché of pure utilitarian minimalism.

He praised designer Sigurd Bank of Mouffpen’s collection of deadstock fabrics as “cool, easy tailoring with clever details and slouchy trousers layered with collared cardigans.”

Outside the runway, the city has found its voice, both literally and figuratively.

At Baserange, vocal group Ilinix performed in a style inspired by the art of listening to and embracing silence.

The brand’s designers, Marie-Louise Mogensen and Brandine de Verdelhan, created different shades to represent different parts of the body, including red for blood flow, white for bone, and green for digestion. I used shades.

Pandora hosted an arts and crafts activation where guests could customize charms onto silver bracelets and necklaces at Tableau, the city’s concept store that doubles as a florist and studio space for creatives.

Eyewear designer Vincent Catani has made a deliberate decision to combine craft and sustainability, hinting that his next collection will be released in spring 2025. Handcrafted in Japan, his pieces are inspired by the 60s and 70s.

Each sunglasses comes with a removable black leather case and comes with a small precision screwdriver. This is an ironic imitation of the way Cartier sells love bracelets.