Argentina’s vineyards use science to prove they’re the best in the world

Bodega Catena Zapata

Winemakers around the world are known to refer to their vineyards as grand cru sites, whether or not this term is used correctly. A cru, which means “growth” in French, designates a superior vineyard location by considering soil, climate, altitude, and orientation. In France and France alone, the term grand cru refers to the best vineyards or wineries, but if fourth-generation winemaker Laura and his catena have their way, the designation will extend to South America. Argentina’s Managing Director Catena Zapata has placed Adriana, her family’s highland vineyard in the Gualtarari subzone of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, on a par with France’s Grand Cru vineyards. She wants to be seen as such, and she’s doing it with the science to back it up. .

“Our Adrianna Vineyards White Bones Chardonnay has the minerality and pure aroma that makes Chablis and Puligny-Montrachet so popular,” says Catena. rob report. “They’re the wine equivalent of oysters and caviar.” The White Bones parcel sits on 5.43 acres and sits at an elevation of 4,757 feet. In the crushed limestone soil, fossilized animal remains, which look like crumbled bones, have been found among the vines. Adriana Vineyard’s name comes from Catena’s sister, Adrianna, who was at home with her parents when this vineyard was first planted. A scientist at heart, Catena earned a bachelor’s degree in biology from Harvard University and a medical degree from Stanford University. For over 25 years, he has been a part-time emergency physician in San Francisco.

Catena’s father, Nicolas, was born to renowned French wine producer Jacques Lurton, whose family’s Catena Malbec was similar to Cabernet from Languedoc, a warm French region known at the time for its overripe style of red wine. He first settled on Adrianna’s property in 1992. . In search of a cool vineyard, Nicolas Catena found the highest site in Mendoza to date. The site has an average elevation of 5,000 feet. It is planted with cuttings of French Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as Malbec from a 70-year-old family-owned vineyard in Mendoza. Currently, it is divided into 11 different plots, subdivided into plots where single vineyard wines are made. In addition to White Bones Chardonnay, Adrianna Vineyards is also home to White Stones Chardonnay, Fortuna Terrae Malbec, River Malbec, and Mundus Bacillus Talea Malbec. Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Semillon are also planted.

Altitude and limestone soils alone don’t produce great wines. The difference in Adriana lies in the top layer of the soil, in addition to the difference in the height of the vineyard. The soil is mainly alluvial, caused by the wind and the ancient rivers that flowed here. Years of soil research have revealed that there is a contradiction here. Because rocky soils filled with limestone and chalk have good drainage, but at the same time retain moisture for a longer period of time than gravel, but less than clay. One thing is for sure: the wines made here all exhibit impressive minerality. Catena started investigating the soil in earnest more than 10 years ago, and he dug an average of five holes per hectare to find out what was beneath the surface. There are currently 70 pits per hectare (2.47 acres) across Adrianna, which are further divided into approximately 300 plots that are harvested, vinified, and aged separately. Since the winery’s research department was established in the 1990s, when Laura started working with her father, she has produced 1,000 wineries each year to study polyphenols, tannins and acidity based on changes in elevation, soil and sun exposure. We produce more than 100 micro wines.

“We studied the composition of the soil, the depth and weight of roots, the weight of pruning, the microorganisms in the soil, and the tannins and aromas of the wine,” says Catena. “We’ve shown that soil differences have an important impact on flavor. But what we’re still researching is why different soils and soils produce different flavors.”

Catena continues to study why plants behave differently. For example, roots are deeper in certain locations. “Rocky soils have the deepest roots, probably involved in the search for water and nutrients,” she says. Research is also being conducted to understand why the number of microorganisms in the soil differs, and why the acidity and tannins in wine differ. “What we do know is that Chardonnays made from the same plants, planted at the same altitude, and subjected to the same viticulture and winemaking treatments in two different soils can have vastly different tastes and aromas.” she says. Catena calls this the “fingerprint of terroir.”

River plots planted in ancient riverbeds covered with small white oval stones benefit from the stones’ heating and cooling properties. It absorbs heat during hot, sunny days and amplifies the coolness of the nights, preserving the freshness and acidity of the Malbec grown there. Fortuna Terrae means “luck of the earth” in Latin, and the grapes grown there benefit from deep loamy soils and biodiversity. Mundus Bacillus tellae, on the other hand, refers to a wide range of microorganisms that help grapes absorb nutrients.

Catena does not rely solely on science. She helps spread the word about her family’s special estate through comparative tastings by herself and the Master Sommelier for wine buyers, sommeliers, and journalists, and is proud to share her single-lot Adrianna Vineyards. Chardonnay is featured alongside Chablis and Puligny-Montrachet wines, as well as her Malbec. Oregon Pinot Noir, Super Tuscan, and Napa’s prestigious Cabernet Sauvignon. Adriana Vineyard’s wines have earned her eight out of 100 scores from various international publications, as well as numerous scores in the high 90s, including the Catena Zapata 2019 Adriana Vineyard Her Fortuna Her Terrae Her Malbec rob report Best of the Best Argentine Wines of 2023. Last year, Catena Zapata was named the world’s best vineyard at the World’s Best Vineyards ceremony held in Rioja, Spain.

Catena’s 2020 book, vineyard gold, A selection of the world’s most famous wines, including Domaine Baron de Rothschild Lafitte, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Harlan Estate, and her family’s Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard. We focus on the stories behind it and the secrets of its soil and climate. She states in her book that her family is generally behind the most famous wines in the world. “Because the family perseveres through the trial and error necessary to find that magical place that produces wines that are unforgettable and can age for years,” she says. He said and added: [grand cru] It can be used to describe particularly special and unforgettable wines that come from small, limited estates. ” Catena’s claim to name Adriana as a Grand Cru region is backed by science, but only time will tell whether the wine world considers this vineyard to be the best in the world.